Friday 3 October 2008

Speedy gonzales strikes again

Today was a day of "shall we shan't we". We left Malealea with the intention of heading to Sani in the south-east of Lesotho but after a few hours changed our plans and decided to leave Leostho and head to the southern Drakensburgh mountains in SA, then we changed them again and decided to go to the central Berg, and then the north. Our heads were reeling with the rapid pace of change. When we had finally decided a plan of action Mike started driving towards the border crossing. We passed a few villages where the police were pulling people over but they waved us on when they saw we were tourists.
As we passed one of the last villages before the border our luck changed - a strapping policeman waved us to the side of the road and approached the window while I urged "do whatever he says and stay calm...please".
"Sir, I am stopping you because you have exceeded the speed limit. Do you accept that you were speeding?". Mike tried pleading innocence, tried using the 'we are but humble tourists' approach, but the cop wouldn't budge. He went away and came back with the evidence - as Mike had overtaken a barely-moving pick-up, heavily laden with straw, he had broken the 50km speed limit by 19km. We were in trouble.
The cop continued "you have two options. You can fill in the paperwork and you have 7 months to pay the fine of 180 rand (about 14 quid) or you can pay me now. As you are tourists we will give you a special discount and the fine will be only 100 rand. I didn't even wait for him to finish before I had handed over the cash. It literally went into the cop's back pocket and he was as eager to let us move on as we were to get out of there. Our very first African bribe and Mike's fourth speeding fine in two years - not bad for a man consistently mocked by his friends for his sedate driving style!
After we crossed the border and skirted the north-east corner of Lesotho we passed a town called Clarens. I suggested we stop for lunch but Mike thought the outskirts of the town looked "rubbish", so we moved on. As we drove on we got hungrier and I looked on the map for the next town - there wasn't one. I opened the guide book to see if there were any options listed in the local area. Nothing. I then found a description of Clarens: "this is a town you stumble upon by accident and talk about for years afterwards...blah, blah, bah.. it's no wonder that the likes of Brad Pitt and Prince Harry make a bee-line for Clarens." Bugger. We drove on, hungry and hurting after the speeding fine incident, Mike bemoaning his lost gourmet lunch in Clarens. We arrived in the northern berg as the sun set over the dramatic Drakensburgh escarpment.

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