Mzungu corkscrews, paddle slaps and hippos

We're playing catch up a little bit here after a few weeks in the wilds of Uganda where we were lucky to have electricity in some of the places we stayed, let alone an internet cafe.

After leaving Rwanda we had probably the dustiest, bumpiest ride of our trip - in a taxi with 8 passengers crammed into it- to the small town of Kabale. From there we headed to Lake Bunyoni for a few days of relaxation. The scenery in this area is very similar to Rwanda, with lush green rolling hills, the only notable difference being a slightly less intensive approach to farming.

We pitched up at the Bunyoni Overland Camp, chose a shady spot and and unfurled the Oh Vee before heading for a stroll. We returned to find not one but three 'overland' trucks had arrived and green overlanders' tents had mushroomed all over the camp site. A bevvy of squeaky 18-year old Aussie girls were washing and hanging up their pants all over our peaceful oasis before hitting the beers for a night of partying. We couldn't wait to get out of there.

The next morning, bright and early we rented a dugout canoe and (after working out how not to spin in circles - the 'Mzungu corkscrew') set off looking for the tranquil paradise we craved. We found it. Just across the bay was Nature's Prime Island with an assortment of rustic log cabins set amongst a beautiful forest - brightly coloured birds chirping in the trees and a whitewashed jetty to jump from into the cool waters of the lake. We rowed straight back across the lake, packed up the Oh Vee, negotiated a good rate on the best cabin on the island and settled in for a night of luxury. We were the only customers and in the evening they lit a big fire for us, covered the table in flowers and cooked up a delicious crayfish curry. We slept like kings in an enormous bed and awoke the next morning to rays of sun peeking between the logs of the cabin. Amazing.

Next stop was dusty, sweaty and hectic Kampala and then on to an organised tour up to Murchison Falls National Park. We lucked out and had a fantastic group in our minibus including an American girl who had been studying chimpanzees in the Semiliki Valley, a Brit who had come to Uganda to set up his own charity and his friend, and another American who was working in an orphanage north of Kampala, and her visiting friend. There was also a slightly odd older German man, but we'll gloss over him. We drove for most of the day and arrived at sunset to see the full force of the Nile powering through a narrow gorge and roaring out the other side. The resulting wall of spray was very welcome after the dusty journey. We spent the night in safari tents surrounded by munching warthogs and grunting hippos. I was so scared to go to the loo in the night that I woke Mike up to come with me. I am not sure what he would have been able to do to save me from a charging hippo, but it made me feel safer.

The next day we went on a morning safari drive through the forest and along the shores of Lake Albert and spent the afternoon in a tiny motor boat on the Nile. For both of us this was the highlight of the trip. We were able to float right up to elephants, crocodiles and hippos on the shores of the river and to see some of the amazing bird life such as crested cranes, kingfishers and fish eagles. Mike and I have become reluctant twitchers whilst in Rwanda and Uganda - the birds are just breathtaking.

The next day it was back to Kampala after a rhino walking tour. Thanks to the ravages of the Idi Amin years wildlife in Uganda is still in recovery and we went to see six rhinos who will hopefully parent a population of wild rhinos in Uganda's future. For now, they spend their days lounging under the trees in the forest of a rhino sanctuary and tourists are allowed to walk right up and observe them. It was pretty amazing to see a rhino on foot - they are immense, and thankfully pretty passive.

We spent the weekend in Kampala being shown around by the gang from our tour, and managed to see the Bond film which was a welcome home comfort. Sunday brought a day of pure adrenalin......

We were picked up early in the morning and whisked out to the source of the Nile. Within seconds we were kitted out in helmets and life jackets and were floating off down the river. The training was all done on the water and before we knew it it was time for the first rapid. Amaaazing. This is supposedly one of the best white water rafting sites in the world, with grades 3, 4 and 5's and we were not disappointed. Our boat was crewed by us, an older American guy and yet another gaggle of shrill Aussie teenagers on an overland tour. As the guide shouted 'paddle hard' as we passed over the top of each rapid, the Aussies cowered in the bottom of the boat and consequently we flipped on almost every rapid.

Flipping is probably the most fun part. You literally don't know which way is up. You are sucked into a washing machine tumble before bobbing up for just a few seconds -for a breath if you are lucky - and disappearing under again as you hit the next wave. When you finally surface you have to try and make it back to the boat and clamber in. We both absolutely loved it and the shrieking, panicking Aussies probably added to our enjoyment as it was funny to hear them scream as we hurtled over each rapid. A particularly exciting moment was when the boat got lodged sideways at the top of a huge waterfall. The guide couldn't spin it back around so we plunged sideways off the top, falling out of the boat headfirst into the pool below. Apparently it was the first time that the guide had ever lost people out of the boat on that rapid and he looked pretty worried when we got to the bottom and scrambled to heave us all back in to the boat.

Mike managed to slap me with his oar on the very first rapid and by the end of the day I had a bulging, purple, 6-inch, paddle-shaped bruise on the top of my left arm. It looks pretty dramatic, so despite the pain I have enjoyed being able to spin a good yarn about it (and of course point it out to Mike on every possible occasion!).

It was a full day's trip and we returned to Kampala totally exhausted but totally elated - and keen to do some more rafting later on in the trip.

The second half of Uganda coming soon....